This is probably the trickiest part of removing the VB.Īs you're slowly lowering the VB, you'll notice that there's a metal rod connecting to it on the driver's side. When you're ready, remove the last bolt in the center, and be ready to hold the VB level with one hand, while you're disconnecting the shift lever rod with the other. Again - the instruction sheet is good at showing where they go back - but if you're worried, you can always take a quick snap of it before you remove them. As long as you keep the VB even fairly level when you bring it down, the checkballs will be retained in their proper locations. That's going to keep the VB intact and level for you (and checkballs intact - all except one of them sit in the top end of the VB (the side you can't see). When you remove the bolts, loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the middle bolt, at first. The instructions tell you which size goes where - make sure you review that when you're putting them back in. When you're sure you understand them - read them again - 'see / be the valve body'.lol. I don't need to tell you about seized pan bolts, at least.įirst - read the instructions that came with the kit. Since you replaced the 1-2 (?) accumulator, you've had the pan off and have seen the valve body. Ok - this is fairly easy to answer for me, since I've done this last year. I suppose I'm mainly just asking for advise for those who have installed this kit into their own rides, and what they would recommend for a first-time installer of the kit. I understand the kit, but I have concerns like losing checkballs, and how the checkballs that stay in the case will actually stay in the case while working on the car-and gravity can cause the ball to drop. I have the TransGo SK4L60E correction kit, and am considering doing it to buy me a little more time off the trans before I get where I want to be financially to buy a new car. I did change my fluid around 174k (currently at 178k) miles and added a Sonaxx pinless accumulator, didn't fix the problem. Another thing to note is that my 2-3 shift will lag and hang-if I'm accelerating hard, in normal driving conditions, I don't feel hang between 2-3. Trans fluid is nice and red, not burnt, so seeing as people around here never seem to keep up with trans maintenance, I just assume the trans was replaced at some point in the distant-past. I don't know the history of this car as it was a $600 "take it or leave it deal" and seeing as it was cheap, with a 5.3l with 168k, I figured why not. Sort of "laggy" so to speak, makes the RPM's hang before shift when warm, right away in the morning when the trans is cold, it shifts perfectly normal-until it warms up. Alright, so since I've bought my TB EXT 5.3L (last October), it's always had a rough 1-2 shift, not like, terribly violent, but very noticeable.
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